Su Shi in the Paradise on Earth

Marco Polo, the first Westerner to set foot in Hangzhou at the end of the 13th century during the Yuan Dynasty, described her as “the finest and most splendid city in the world”. Hangzhou had prospered as the ancient capital of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) before the Mongolian army took over the city. In fact, Chinese have long regarded the city of Suzhou and Hangzhou as the paradise on earth. The history of both cities dates back to more than 2,000 years ago. Suzhou is famous for her numerous Chinese gardens whereas Hangzhou is renowned for her natural beauty around West Lake. What attracted me to Hangzhou was Su Shi, my favorite poet and Hangzhou governor in the 11th century during the Northern Song Dynasty.

Nobody can miss Su Shi’s presence in Hangzhou, especially right across West Lake. Su Shi turned the silt of the lake into a causeway 2.8 km long. People of Hangzhou have named it Suti, meaning Su Causeway, in memory of his many contributions in Hangzhou. The city of Hangzhou did not forget Su Shi 900 years later. In December 1988, a memorial hall was open on the south end of the causeway. A statue of Su Shi, three meters in height, stands right in front of the main hall.

Peach trees, Yulan magnolia, cherry trees, Cottonrose Hibiscus, olive trees and willows line both sides of the causeway. When I was walking on Suti in mid March, spring was slowly returning to West Lake although it was still too early for a full blossom. The lake would get a little misty sometimes because of the drizzle. In Su Shi’s eyes, West Lake in mist and rain was as much a wonder as the shimmering waters in bright sunshine. Su Shi likened West Lake to Xi Shi, one of the famed Four Beauties of ancient China, in his famous poem. I realized that the poetic beauty of West Lake was hardly the poet’s imagination. The mist and drizzle even added a few romantic touches to the lake.

Su Shi’s literary gift, sense of humor and charismatic character left behind a rich legacy of poems, lyrics, essays and tales to the people of Hangzhou. He is remembered at the dining table as well. Su Shi, also known as Su Dongpo, created the famous Hangzhou dish bearing his name as the story goes. Louwailou Restaurant (楼外楼) is the best place at West Lake to taste Dongpo’s pork and authentic Hangzhou cuisine. The restaurant, founded in 1848 during the Qing Dynasty, has received many Chinese politicians, writers and celebrities over the years. The founder of the Republic of China Sun Yat-sen and his wife, Soong Ch'ing-ling, the late Chinese Premier Zhou Enlai, the novelist Lu Xun, the poet Yu Dafu and the cartoonist Feng Zikai were some noted guests at Louwailou.

Hangzhou is not merely a touristic city with impressive scenery. For me, the beauty of the paradise on earth is incomplete without her long history and rich culture.

Valeria Teo is a contracted writer for an Chinese dictionary.